MASTERLINK INSTALLATION: MR. KNOW-IT-ALL

MASTER COMMANDER
Dear Mr. Know-It-All,
Just wanted to chime in on the recent advice related to master-link installation and will add, “You really should have known.” Using a vise grip or pliers is a surefire way to struggle and/or bend, mar or score the clip. Both these tools open and close in an arc, so slipping off is unavoidable. Proper technique requires a quick, firmly applied tapping motion into position as the clip is after all a spring clip with snap-into-place action. A wide, flat, stubby screwdriver placed against the clip end to install/remove the clip is the easiest and quickest way. Place the chain/link in position onto the rear sprocket at a 90-degree downward angle to the swingarm. Place the snap plate into the proper position, engaging/aligning the pin/plate groove and apply a quick strike with your hand at a slight angle. Done! Reverse to remove.
U.R.S.H.K
Via [email protected]

Dear URAI (“yoU Re An Idiot”), had you perused the response, it said that vise grips were used to press the plate onto the link, not the clip onto the pins. If you had the savvy of an ashtray, you would know that getting the plate onto a new link, especially on a new O-ring chain, requires that the new O-rings get compressed enough so that the plate slips over the pin and gives you the necessary gap to let you gain access to the grooves on the link pins. Using a current chain tool is best, but I have used an extra plate doubled against the new plate and vise grips to compress everything into place. Then, remove the spacer plate and set the spring clip onto the forward link groove (with the closed end towards the engine). Gently slide it until the mouth of the spring clips onto the remaining pin and pop it on using your screwdriver technique. Now, go lick a dog food dish. You’re irritating. 

MOON DANCE


Deer mr no it al,
Thair wunce wuz a swine up in them thar nortern wuds ov az wuz that yu?
Anonymous
Via [email protected] 

I just parachuted in from the moon. Come again?

JET SETTER
Dear Mr. Know-It-All,
I recently purchased a 2018 KTM 250XC-W and am having some issues with the jetting. I’m running Bel-Ray 60-1 premium gas, clean filter, etc. The plug fouls when the engine is first started and doesn’t idle down properly if I go leaner on the pilot and needle. Now I am one size leaner than stock and have dropped the needle one clip. I am at 3500 feet elevation and ride in the eastern slopes up to 7000 feet. The dealer said some of the OEM reeds can be a problem and wants me to switch to Moto Tassinari or Boyesen. Any suggestions on which would work better for this application? The dealer claims the Tassinaris are better quality, but I have used Boyesen on other bikes with no issues.
Be easy on me, as I am old and grumpy like you.
RR
Alberta Canada

Hey, Grumpy, we got with our buddy Jeff Slavens from Slavens Racing for his input here. He’s a two-stroke aficionado and a KTM devotee:
“The Tassinari brothers put out a great product, but so does Boyesen. You can’t go wrong with either one. Your jetting dilemma is common with the 2018 KTMs and Husqvarnas. Mikuni missed the mark on the setup, and consequently they make better paperweights than they do fuel atomizers. The biggest part of the problem is the needle design and the needle atomizer, both of which were improved in 2019. James Dean at JD Jetting has a kit that will get you on track. Don’t waste your money buying more brass.

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