Back in the dark ages (1960s and ?70s) most exhaust pipes ran along the lower portion of the bike: a rare feat of engineering brilliance that put your pipe closer to the ground and destructive boulders than anything other than the rubber. For those of you who remember those days, you?ll probably remember experiencing some level of pipe damage nearly every time you went riding.

Thanks to the many engineers finally awaking from their post-WWII slumber, pipes now run in a more sensible place on the bike, reducing their proximity to the ground, and hopefully reducing the number of pipe replacements you face every year. Unfortunately though, dents still happen. And until George Jetson designs an internal combustion engine that eliminates the need for exhaust emissions, dents always will happen.

The point of this brief history lesson is that there?s an alternative to running to your nearest dealer and shelling out hundreds of dollars to replace that worn pipe. It?s the ancient art of pipe repair, and here?s how to do it?or who to call if you?re not Bob Villa.

1) The most important (and time consuming) part of the process is capping the pipe. First, cap the header so that it is completely sealed. DeWayne Jones assembles his from steel, aluminum, and gasket material to form a perfect seal.


2) Next, thoroughly clean the stinger and of the pipe and fasten the air compressor hose tightly (forming a cap). It is imperative to make sure that the stinger end is clean and fastened securely to the compressor hose so it doesn?t blow off from the pressure.


3) Apply pressure, making sure not to exceed 100 pounds psi, but try to stay around 70 psi. The amount of pressure you need will vary depending on the location and extent of the dent.


4) Use a blowtorch to gradually bend, or ‘iron out’ the pipe back into its original shape. Be careful not to use too much pressure or heat that could result in an explosion. It?s essential to wear protective clothing?hot, molten metal doesn?t make a good shower.


5) After the pipe has cooled down, use a rotary wire wheel to sand down the pipe and smooth out the finish. Use a pad of Scotch Brite for the hard-to-reach areas.


6)Sometimes the finished product will perform better than new as a result of increased expansion. Conclude the process with a fresh coat of paint and your pipe will return to peak performance.


DeWayne Jones Performance Suspension(909) 626-2751
Finish Line Pipe Repair (800) 843-8745
Pacific Crest Pipe Repair (800) 460-6880


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